ABSOLUTE CONNECTION TO THE LAND

by Michelle Gadd

The remarkable and authentic brand that is Cullen Wines has been 50 years in the making. Vanya Cullen is the custodian of this renowned winery located in Margaret River WA. Vanya recently received further recognition being named the inaugural winner of the Halliday Viticulturalist of the Year. This complemented her Winemaker of the Year gong in 2020, and many other accolades over her 33-year journey in winemaking.

Vines were first planted in the ancient granite soils of the Wilyabrup property in 1971 by Vanya's parents, Kevin and Diana, after heeding advice from agricultural scientist Dr John Gladstones a few years earlier. He studied the climate and soils of the area and offered straight forward advice about the proposed plan for their land; “You’re mad to plant lupins...you should plant grapevines.”

Right from the start the vineyard was farmed using sustainable practices. Kevin & Diana held an enlightened outlook for the time and recognised that the natural environment needed to be protected, and synthetic chemicals avoided. Diana & Kevin were early eco- activists, supporting environmental causes, such as opposing the damming of Lake Pedder in Tasmania in the early 1970’s.

The Cullen family is full of pioneers. Diana’s mother, Grace Madeline, was a suffragette and a nature photographer, and Diana was not afraid to go against convention, being “…the first woman to wear trousers in Busselton”. These family beliefs would stand Vanya in good stead for the journey ahead.

“The whole feminine, Mother Earth legacy of caring for the environment really came from my grandmother, Grace Madeline. And dad was a doctor, so he saw all the bad effects of chemicals on patients, which you couldn’t ignore as a doctor.” – Vanya Cullen

Diana and Vanya made the intuitive change towards organics in 1998 in effort to revive and enliven their ancient soils. Drains were put in, cover crops and composting was employed to put back what had been taken out. A-Grade Organic Certification resulted in 2003.

I first heard Vanya speak in 2003 at a Biodynamic Wine Conference held in Beechworth. It was an historic occasion, orchestrated by Julian Castagna of Castagna Wines. It had attracted Biodynamic enthusiasts from all over Australia and the world. The energetic exchange of ideas coupled with the extraordinary wines on offer inspired all those present. It was this event that convinced Vanya that she was on the right path with biodynamics, but it wasn't an easy path.

“…it was difficult, and we did get a lot of push-back. When we first went biodynamic, some people were really dismissive.”

Eighteen years later, the landscape is very different thanks to trailblazers like Vanya. Her years of experimentation, observation, innovation, and advocacy have benefited the whole industry, and Vanya was recently honoured with the title “The Mother of Biodynamics in Australia”.

“…biodynamic preparations are like probiotics for the soil...”

Not only have all the Cullen vineyards been Biodynamic since 2008, but they boast five biodynamic kitchen gardens which supply over 90% of the produce used in their carbon positive Dining Room. They also have many beehives on-site, providing millions of vital workers, and honey for the kitchen.

I was lucky enough to visit Cullen in July, and was enchanted by the wine, the food, the lovely staff and the beautiful surroundings. The whole property has such a magical and nurturing atmosphere; the sound of the birds and the bees, and the soils under your feet feel so alive. If you are in the area, you must book a visit.

Vanya has a deep, emotional connection to the land and an enduring curiosity about the natural world. This has guided her pursuit of truly great wines that reflect and honour their origins.

“…the voice of vineyard in getting louder in the glass which is a very beautiful thing” – Vanya Cullen

Cullen wines are all dry-farmed, and they come from either the Cullen vineyard, which surrounds the Biodynamic Wine Room and winery buildings, or the Mangan vineyard nearby.

The flagship varietals are Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay (being Margaret River) and Cullen are at the very top echelon with their Kevin John Chardonnay and Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon. Definitely special occasion wines.

If you want something a little less traditional, look to the so-called “Supernatural” range, including the Dancing in the Moonlight Rosé, the skin-contact Amber Wine and the cloudy Rose Moon Pet Nat.

.We also have a couple of 375ml options that make experiencing such divine wines a little more affordable. In fact, the six-year-old Cullen Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 375ml 2016 is drinking superbly right now so don’t miss that one.

You really can’t go wrong with any Cullen wine. Some varietals are very limited, so they will come and go quite quickly, and we will stock more of the range when new vintages are released.

We are so pleased to be able to offer you such delicious wine with such noble and environmental heritage.