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biodynamic return to terroir edition »
In March I attended the Return to Terroir Wine Tasting that was part of the Melbourne
Food & Wine festival. The Return to Terroir (Renaissance
des Appellations) is a group of about 170 of the finest biodynamic winemakers
from all around the world whose aim is to produce the most distinctive and honest
wines possible, that reflect their individual terroir. The group was founded by
Nicolas Joly & about 70 members of the group were at the Melbourne event. I
was accompanied by a fellow wine lover & friend Tracey Jarvis-Ball & I asked
Tracey to write an article that summed up her impressions from the tasting. Her
article is below.
return to terroir » why biodynamics? » what's the difference?
by Tracey Jarvis-Ball
In March Michelle and I were lucky to attend the International Return to Terroir tasting, part of Melbourne's recent Wine and Food Festival. Here we asked a few of the many Biodynamic producers what they found was different as a result of introducing biodynamic practices – including the renown guru himself – Nicolas Joly from Coulee de Serrant in France's Loire Valley and Vanya Cullen from Margaret River's Cullen Wines.
"we are helping wines catch the climate and
soil"
» The soil is more alive and diverse with much more water holding and deeper rooting capacity with a better capability to withstand the vagaries of climate change, producing improved wine quality through all vintages » As a result of the above the uniqueness, varietal character of the wine shines through, as a true reflection of the four natural components that created it – heat, light, water and soil/subsoil providing each wine with a "sense of place" » The resulting wine is more "individual, pure, real, authentic" and has more vibrancy and energy without requiring "wine making trickery" » Wines are less aggressive and therefore more accessible and easier to drink than chemically produced wines » The holistic nature of biodynamic principles touches/influences everything associated with the wine - the vineyard, the workforce and the winery – biodynamics is something you live and breathe and this attracts and sustains like minded people across the whole value chain!
"Biodynamic grapes are a great expression of
terroir and a sense of place"
Key things we reflected on from this opportunity were: » The approachability, brightness, structure and layered complexity presented in so many of the wines we tried » The "across the board" energy, vitality/liveliness found in each flight of wine we tried – presenting genuine, individual flavour differences between terroir and grape type » The wines we tasted had much lower sugar and acid levels, without the big "alcoholic" tendency of some modern wine styles, but still plenty of flavour » The amazing variety and obvious reflection of terroir in what are essentially the same grapes/wines but grown on different sites across the world Overall it was a wonderful opportunity to see the true passion and belief demonstrated by all that we met and we left with the strong message that biodynamics is the only way to really present a true, quality wine that reflects its origins. You can really only see/taste the terroir if the wine is biodynamic!
» Coulee de Serrant biodynamic wine tasting pack » $275A selection of 12 biodynamic wines from all over Australia & NZ at a "better than straight case price" per bottle. The pack includes: 
» Cullen 2008 Margaret River Red
highlights from previous newsletter » still available spring seed 2010 forget-me-not sauvignon blanc semillon»mclaren vale, fleurieu, SA > organic > vegan > great value
"The wine is frrrrreessshh. All primary fruits in the bouquet with limes and mandarins
doing a little dance. The palate has a grassy affectation, some grapefruit acidity,
a pinch of spice then mandarin juice and tropical fruits come back to the fore."
90+ points » Mike Bennie www.winefront.com.au
 thistle hill 2010 riesling » pristine floral & citrusmudgee, NSW > organic
The follow-up offering from the highly awarded 2009 vintage, this wine is a light
pale yellow with a hue of gold and caramel. The nose is pristine, floral and citrus
tinged leading into a palate that is flooded with ripe fruit flavours and a long,
lingering finish that shows a subtle smoky peach essence. CELLARING: 6-8 years
 hochkirch 2008 steinbruch pinot noir » earthy burgundianhenty, VIC > biodynamic > low preservative > vegan suitable > wild yeast ferment
Moderately deep red colour with a rather lifted nose showing high notes of cherry
& dark plums with a lingering earthiness in front of subtle French oak.Palate is
all sweet red fruit and juicy acid leading to dark earthy flavours and fine tannins
with moderate length. A bold, earthy, rich, burgundian style.
 thistle hill 2010 preservative free shiraz » trophy winnermudgee, NSW > organic > introductory price
"All the Thistle Hill wines are excellent of late; this one, with no added preservative,
adds value to the vineyard's organic status. Bright, fresh, simple cherry/plum and
blackberry fruit-driven aromas, fresh and clean, with no oxidative ill effects.
Good depth of flavour, balance and length. Not for long keeping. Food Mixed grill."
89/100 » Huon Hooke » Good Living, Sydney Morning Herald Feb 2011
» read more
 lowe 2010 tinja preservative free merlot » fantastic pricemudgee, NSW > organic > introductory price
Vibrant young red very dark in colour, richly textured with aromas of blood plums,
star anise and a spicy full palate with fine tannins which are another form of protection.
Bottled immediately after fermentation without any oak influence, this seductive
innovative organic wine is designed for immediate enjoyment - especially with risottos,
stews and tagines or the mid-week feet-up spag bol. Drink now.
» read more
 red centre 2007 shiraz » bronze medal» is it thursday yet?swan hill, VIC > organic > vegan suitable
This wine is ageing well. Garnet red in colour with purple edges, the nose shows
spiced plums, blueberries and some earthiness. The palate is smooth & mouthfilling
with more dark red fruits and a hint of licorice. Great with Thursday night pizza.
more new & noteworthy organic biodynmaic & nap wines »hochkirch 2009 maximus pinot noir » B LP V W » $40.00 » $456 casekalleske 2010 Clarry's Grenache Shiraz Mataro » O V » $18.70 » $210 casemillton 2008 riverpoint vineyard chardonnay » O » $24.70 » $288 casemillton 2008 te arai vineyard chenin blanc » O » $24.70 » $288 casespring seed 2010 four o'clock chardonnay » O V » $16.00 » $180 caseyalumba 2010 organic riverland viognier » O V W » $15.00 » $168 casebunn 2006 cabernet sauvignon » NAP V W » mixed $21.00 » $240 casebunn 2006 shiraz » NAP V W » $21.00 » $240 casetemple bruer 2009 Shiraz (preservative free) » O NAP V » $18.30 » $210 cs |
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